Zulu Mien is a grassroots social enterprise dedicated to supporting female artisans in South Africa. This people-before-profits brand is the culmination of Nicola Robertson’s years of experience on the ground, working and living with women in remote communities. The jewellery emerging from this collaboration is as appealing for it’s beauty as it is for its philosophy: that we should live a life of grace and integrity, and never lose the awareness that we are all connected to each other.
As a trained craft product developer, Nikki has been focussed on linking rural enterprises with customers since 2003. From traditional basketry to woodwork, her job is to ensure these goods can perform in high value markets. A creative all-rounder, her roots extend back to high school art classes, through tertiary studies in graphic and fashion design, and now to handmade jewellery. However the company was only born after Nikki completed her MA in Arts and Culture Management from Wits, and graduated from the Social Entrepreneurship Programme at the Gordon Institute of Business Science.
Crafting is an accessible and crucial revenue source for a female population group whose days are packed with responsibilities, yet this income can be highly inconsistent. Zulu Mien contributes to the sustainability of remote communities by assisting them with the design and development of their products, and provides access to marketing and sales channels that would otherwise be out of reach.
Nikki’s vision is to include more artisans as the Zulu Mien brand grows, but for now she partners with the exceptional master beaders of the Rhubhani group in Mpumalanga, most of whom have been beading since childhood. Though their pieces are meticulously handcrafted using ancient Nguni methods passed down from mother to daughter over generations, beadwork’s ubiquity in South Africa makes it sadly undervalued. Nikki opted for simplified, elegant designs to set the aesthetic apart from the busier patterns found in traditional pieces, and in line with her customers’ preference. Sterling silver was chosen as a means of further elevating the form; for the elegance it adds and for the way it compliments any colour combination. The first range that combined this precious metal with (only the highest quality) thread and glass beads was developed by the Zulu Mien team with the assistance of fine jeweller Khanya Mthethwa.
Zulu Mien targets international customers who have more of an appreciation – and budget – for the craft. The business model is focussed on creating striking yet replicable items that are sustainable for rural craftswomen to make, rather than once-off commissions. While they have in the past produced large-scale custom beadwork for a Japanese client, their intention is to secure large orders for existing designs. An on-going challenge is to seek ways to keep production expenses down for the benefit of these remote communities, which inevitably incur high transport costs. To develop new ranges, Nikki will either travel to the women in Mpumalanga or they will travel to her in Pretoria, and from there the items are sent on to the fine jeweller for completion. It’s not the most efficient production model, but Nikki is driven by social conscience rather than profit margins.
The company is now at a point where they are looking to train the team in basic jewellery making skills, and have applied for funding for this. Nikki will also be taking a course with a manufacturing jeweller and setting up a bench for herself to increase their self-sufficiency and reduce manufacturing costs. As participants in the New York Now Digital Market from July to December 2021, their hope is for this platform to deliver wholesale buyers based in the US, who will ensure stable profitability.
Nikki is a veteran when it comes to seizing training opportunities. She’s been a participant in The South African Creative Industries Incubator, Impact Makers and Creators with the Social Enterprise Academy and British Council, and an export incubator with the Johannesburg Chamber of Commerce and Industry. This month she will be starting mentorship with CoNNect Agency, which assists emerging jewellery designers globally to develop brand awareness and growth.
She’s consistently marketed and promoted her brand, participating in trade shows like the Kamers/Makers market and has been featured in The Star and recently in the Get It Magazine (Pretoria, July 2021). In 2020 Zulu Mien stood out amongst 1360 entries to win an Innibos National Craft Award for their Bahlezi range of jewellery. On her inclusion as a Design Indaba Emerging Creative, she says “It’s brought added exposure, and credibility to the business as a legitimate design leader. It says we know and understand design and we design and create world-class products.”
Her advice for up-and-coming jewellers is to enter all the competitions and take every shot at gaining exposure or training. “One opportunity always leads to the next and you build a network of supportive people who help you along your journey. Also, make the most of every opportunity, and give it your all.”
Nikki can be contacted on:
082 334 4426
zulumien@gmail.com
https://www.zulumien.com/
Or find her on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter
The Award-winning Bahlezi range