We’ve scoured the expert sites from Harpers Bazaar to Vogue and everything in between to round up the jewellery trends most likely to steal the limelight in 2023
First, a dig into what’s driving consumer behaviour:
Customers continue to take the initiative and buy jewellery they really want, for themselves.
From small everyday spoils to bigger splurges on personal statement items that are colourful and fun, this consumer trend emerged from pandemic times when people were looking for uplifting, mood-improving pieces. As we find ourselves on the other side of those dark days, the sentiment remains that life’s too short to wait for someone else to do the gifting, and fine jewellery has become more of an everyday wearable item instead of being reserved for special occasions.
Meaning, Significance and Personalisation
There’s a growing interest from consumers in jewellery that tells stories, and fashionistas expect to see celebrations of artisanship, organic forms, hand-crafted techniques and the use of sustainable natural materials. An increase in requests for intentional, and often custom designs are being reported. These pieces are highly sentimental and often worn close to the heart.
In terms of aesthetic, designers are reporting a greater demand for bolder pieces, with a return to 80’s and 90’s styling predicted, and silver looks set to rise in popularity.
Here’s what dazzled the critics in the Spring 2023 collections shown in New York, London, Milan, and Paris:
The big/bold/bright/whimsical aesthetic is sticking around
Demand continues for standout earrings, rings, and necklaces that reflect shoppers’ personalities and interests, and it seems the bigger the statement, the better. Whether through saturated colours, playful maximalism, Boho styling or punches of Punk, current fashion is unapologetically loud and proud. The runways were peppered with grandiose necklaces, sometimes doubling up as body chains (which made quite the appearance as well, thanks to the Kardashians and the Jenners).
Chunky cuffs and chains remain popular
Layered necklaces seem to have moved aside for statement, chunky chokers that add maximum impact. However Versace walked the line by layering chokers, and pairings of large and thin cuffs were also prevalent in this season’s edits. This stacking in some instances combined mixed metals, another signifier of what to expect to sell in 2023. Moschino and Chanel went full-on heavy metal with gold chokers, leading award-winning jewellery designer and silversmith Lucy Quartermaine to comment: “I can definitely see chokers making a comeback.” Cuffs were also layered over clothes by houses like Prada, presenting an opportunity to design this accessory to be worn by your clients all year round, not just in the warmer months on bare arms.
Eye-catching earrings
Generated in part due to the move to online video calls, this trend is gaining momentum as social gatherings return and people no longer wear masks. Super-long, shoulder-skimming earrings are conversation-starters, and provide an instant upgrade to any outfit. This is probably the most prevalent jewellery trend on the runway this season and iterations of these in some cases fall to the collarbones and beyond. As a jewellery item that so beautifully frames the face and makes such a dramatic impact, this is perhaps the one trend to focus on in your collections.
The sub-trend of asymmetry also presents an income opportunity here. Craft a range that includes, for example, both massive statement hoops or long chain earrings as well as shorter drops and studs, and your clients may buy two or more to mix and match, as well as to wear as intended pairs.
Natural themes
Pearls are here to stay it seems, extending their popular run from the last few seasons. We’re seeing this classic look being increasingly evolved in modern, edgy interpretations, and the use of super XL oversized pearls take it to the next level. Sophie Bille Brahe, Completedworks and Mizuki are some key brands for this look. Natural beads were showcased in thin necklaces that echoed the sub-theme of boho-inspired whimsy. Seashells and the rather obvious Spring motif of florals and wildflowers brought a cheerful, sun-sea-and-sand feel to the runways. In line with an overarching theme of 2023, these flower designs were anything but dainty, appearing in mood-lifting, bright colours and bold sizes. Coloured stones have had a consistent run the last few seasons, and particularly emeralds have been showcased recently.
Metals:
Though gold tones continue to dominate the Spring/Summer collections, flashes of Silver pieces in bold sculptural shapes were notable. The cooler-toned metal seems to be increasing steadily in popularity and is seen in more futuristic styling on the runways, especially in the form of oversized hoop earrings which perfectly modernise this 80’s wardrobe staple. Mixed metals have also been making an appearance, though it’s difficult to ascertain whether this will continue to trend upwards.
Other sub-themes:
Cocktail Rings
All the celebrities seem to be wearing signet and pinky rings. Emerging brands are creating unique takes on these styles and more overseas retailers are beginning to stock them.
Heart motifs
Jewellery that features heart shapes featured prominently particularly in the Versace and Chanel lines.
Crystal bling and darker precious stones – the classics remain timeless
Diamonds are an obviously evergreen staple. There’s no putting this look on ice! Darker stones like labradorite and garnet made a reappearance in beading on the catwalks. These versatile and classic accoutrements provided a counterbalance to the youthful exuberance that was prevalent in most of the shows.
So that’s the expert take on what to expect, and if they’re correct there’s definitely a a trend that’ll suit your personal style. Plus – in what heralds great news for manufacturing jewellers: Victoria Lampley of jewellery consultancy The Stax reports that the current desire for handcrafted styling goes beyond looks. “People want pieces from artisanal jewellers who are sitting at the bench themselves,” she says. “They want the stamp of someone’s fingerprint on a piece.”
May 2023 be the year of the independent jeweller!